2. Make mitered corners to begin strips
Version A--cast on 4st
Row 1 (RS): k1, (increase twice), k1
Row 2 (WS): k2,p4,k2
Row 3: k2, (increase twice), k2
Row 4: k2, p6, k2
Row 5: k3, (increase twice), k3
Row 6: k2, p8, k2
Continue increasing twice at or near the two center st in this manner.
Options for the increases: (k1-row below, k1) twice; kFB twice; (yo, k2, yo); if working a lace panel, work a k1 in place of a ssk or k2tog in pattern near the center line.
Version B--Cast on 3st.
Row 1 (RS): k1, (double increase), k1.
Row 2 (WS): k2, p2, k2
Row 3: k2, (double increase), k2.
Row 4: k2, p3, k2.
Row 5: k3, (double increase), k3
Row 6: k2, p5, k2
Continue adding a double increase in the center of the piece on each RS row in this manner. Options for the double increase include (k1, yo, k1) in one st; (yo, k1, yo); m1 on each side of center st
I begin working partial repeats of my pattern as soon as I have enough st.
- Allow 2 garter st, then begin the chart/pattern row at the right edge of the work.
- Skip any stitches that don't exist yet because you haven't gotten to the increases. Don't forget to increase twice on the RS rows.
- After you pass the center st, work the appropriate number of st on the left edge of work from the END of your chart/pattern. (This is easier for me with charted stitch patterns).
If you don't want to do this or are working a very narrow or complicated pattern, you can work in plain stockinette or garter st until you have enough st to work full pattern rows.
Increase until you have twice the number st needed for your pattern panel, plus 8st.
Arrange as follows:
2 garter st - (pattern) - 2 garter st - 2 garter st - (pattern) - 2 garter st.
(There is a selvedge of 2 garter st on either side of each pattern panel.)
3. Work strips
Divide at center. Proceed with pattern back and forth in rows. (k2, work across a right side pattern row, k2; stop at center and turn work; k2, work across a wrong side pattern row, k2.) Join a separate piece of yarn to remaining st another panel.
4. Assembly
Continue until each is panel is the appropriate length. (If working a rectangle, the panels will be different lengths to match the dimensions of the center.) Sew together. You may wish to lightly block panels before sewing, especially if the neighboring stitch patterns are very different in stretchiness (e.g. a lace next to a twist-stitch pattern). It is a good idea to sew as you go. It is hard to measure the width/length needed if you have many unconnected strips.
Repeat with more stitch patterns and colors. All following strips must be long enough to sew to the rectangle plus the previous pattern strip.
When blanket is desired size, add an edging or fringe if desired around entire outside, or just leave as is.
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Originally I was going to work each strip to the piece before it in the manner an edging is joined to a blanket or shawl as it is knitted. I ran into some gauge disasters.
The afghan I am making is for DSTwin. He declared that mitered corners are cooler than lapped corners, so this is not a true log cabin design. I think having two matching sides meeting in the corners gives a neatly layered frame effect and keeps the sampler from becoming too random. The strip construction also makes it portable.
